Some Rhythm and Bullshit.

I have so many flashbacks when I'm watching her learning to surf. I remember the fear, frustration, anger, joy and pure stoke I felt. I want to help but there's no way. Past a certain point there isn't much you can do. I remember how much I wanted it, but didn't quite know what 'it' was.

This is something you have to figure out on your own. But I wish I could pass all my knowledge and experience over, because it all seems so easy now. So easy to say these things too.

I remember how weak I was in the sea too, how it battered me, but I had nobody to tell me anything, they took years to find. But then one day on that town beach in Lagos, I took a new risk. In fact three of us dropped into three perfect head high waves and all made clean bottom turns and that was it.

After that surfing became a joy, a time changing meditation, a reason to be fit and strong, and to travel the world to surf anything with a face.

Its a long journey. Fraught with peril and triumph.

Never say die.