As usual long time between posts. There's been surf,there's been music,people, new life and love. 2013 was a really great year. It started slowly became great and passed in a flash as they tend to nowadays. Blink and its gone!
I'm sitting here writing this in Hikkaduwa. Sri Lanka. Just about to leave on the long return journey. The universe in the funny way it does these things, brought me here. I just turned 34. On my birthday I surfed 5 hours at the little reef at Hikkaduwa and I finally decided to let go of someone that changed my life in many respects for the better. I feel like I've had another watershed moment in my life and have learned a lot about what it means to communicate, and give yourself to another (or not)...so hopefully I've become a little bit wiser as a result.
I think I had the best new year party ever. Absolute insanity beach parties up and down the coast, beers and fireworks everywhere. Even played some ping pong next to the ocean.
I feel like I've never been physically sharper than I am right now. Swimming in London and paddling out a lot in Portugal in November has paid off, and at times I'm killing it in the crowd here. Cycling in the city streets has helped me massively in the last two years too. In 2014 I want to do a triathlon. I also want to meditate more...I read if you have any sort of mental edge that will sharpen it :)
Music I've seen live this year,was the Bouncing souls I think? Menzingers, Ghostpoet, Keane, Passenger (fucking amazing), Crazy Arm at the Old Blue Last, and Ben Howard oh and basement jaxx at board masters. Not a phenomenal number but some truly great moments in there.
Stoked for new Lawrence arms,H2O, Menzingers, Chuck Ragan, Gaslight anthem?? albums next year
So, since Morocco, I've surfed a few good sessions in the UK but not enough.
I did buy a sick board,a new 6'2" rusty round tail quad/thruster. Beautiful good wave board. Catches waves like a machine. Draws beautiful big sweeping lines. Since riding it in Portugal Noevember. I've never looked back.
Had some Newquay days with Scotty, Pete and Tom.space cakes, beer and a band called face melter(RIP) haha.
Some amazing days at Watergate bay in June. Porthtowan with Tom also. Hit up board masters with Fletcher in August. Lot of youth there haha. Surfed watergate with a killer hangover also mellowed out at Crantock too. Real nice festival. We watched Ben Howard play in howling winds. Then a pretty uneventful autumn surf wise, which was hard/frustrating. But a nice trip to SW Portugal in Nov got some average surf (24 hours+ Tho) crazy driving moments of off-roading and smashing airport barriers. Lots of food, beers,r ed wine and sleep as ever. It was a time of reflection, recuperation as much as a surf trip and returning to London was a bit of a downer after all the sun and relaxation...which in hindsight was the beginning of the changes I mentioned earlier.
...after a fairly dark at time,but enlightening December (don't mention Spurs either). I'm here in Sri Lanka...I love that my boss is in Norway, sister in India, friends in Portugal and the Caribbean....the wave is a sick(aduwa) . A little reef that's pretty soft but rears up and gives you a great drop and offers up lovely walls and makeable sections. Been riding by board as a quad and it's FAST like a mutha. Often a big crowd of very mixed abilities. Had to break the longboard out last night as the swells dropped a lot, totally dominated 20 short boards in waist high mush.
The final few days we moved north up the beach to the main reef. My god that was some next level shit. Dont know why we waited. Sweet drops and a perfect Aframe configuration. It was crowded yeah, but the ocean gave me my fair share. The day Guy P came out here, I paddled out on my own and got some truly classic waves.
Got pretty tired by the last day,and a final golden window of about 5 good waves in 15 mins, I was getting pretty surfed out. The last evening session was barely a session, I did manage to finally get smashed properly,getting held down taking a chunk outta my toe on the reef.
Also Went Whale watching saw a blue whale!! Felt sorry for the guy as 20 odd boats stalked him around the open ocean.
So yeah steeling myself for 2014. I think it's going to be a truly great one. I have a thirst to learn this year it would seem. I wonder where we'll all be a year from now.
PMA all day yo! Keep rollin and evolvin'
No comments:
Post a Comment