Since Nov' last year the landscape has changed. Previously sandy beaches have been decimated by a series of big storms that have pounded the Moroccan shoreline; beaches like Mysteries and Bananas are now strewn with masses of driftwood, rocks, pebbles and plastic flushed from dry riverbeds. New waves have appeared outside the Auberge and Mandala villas (Pinacoladas). But generally it was a bit grim near town. Water at Bananas was awful.
| From 2010 according to the phone |
Finally got up my nerve to paddle out at Ankas on the Thursday, not such a big deal I guess - just wanted to for fuckin ages. I've surfed heavier waves, and sketchier locations, although not many, but never such a sketchy location coupled with 8-10ft surf. Having watched the day before I was acutely aware of the rip towards Tagazout (saw 3 guys just disapear into the distance) got caught in it a little not too bad. Only really took one serious wave, but it was soooooo good. Proper in-the-moment stuff.Forgot how life afirming surfing can be when you push it. Ive been a bit cruisey since that f'd up day at Cocles in Puerto Viejo last year. The crowd was 20-30 people and busy, got caught a little inside once. I wasn't sure how to get back either so I stayed out for ages. Paddle back was long. Surfed another right hand point that afternoon at Panorama's. Confidence was well up haha. Same the next day at Tamri(water was clean too). Will never take someone driving there and back for me for granted again, nice drive. Long way though.
Most the other sessions were a bit shit unfortunately but those 3 were easily some of the best and most memorable Ive had in Morocco. I think my guitar playing is progressing slowly...very slowly but was nice to hang out with Red again, always learn new stuff from him. Easily one the best players Ive ever met.
On a terribly sad note, the guys at Surf Maroc lost a friend this week. Felt awful for them all, it brought back some of the feeling s from a couple of years ago. I can only sympathize with what they're feeling. RIP Paul.
My week ended with a dawnie at Panoramas, wished I had more time but only 20 odd minutes in the water spend paddling against a strong rip. not much fun. Got up at 6.30 to find myself fully locked in at the villa. In my haste I forgot my towel hehe bare assed changing and an empty lineup:
| From 2010 according to the phone |
A great week, surreal, sad, fun, life affirming. Surfing is life.
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