Man we're all dog tired. Surf here is cranking at the moment even tho we hit santa Theresa at low tide, took a while but got some really nice rides. Big lefts. Got so close to being barrelled on a right but got knocked on the head.
Drifted into some local spot, seems they do not like longboards. I called some local ripper off a wave, which to be fair he did leave. When I paddled back I got an earful from a tico with blong hair and a face covered in pink zinc. New policy of peace made me keep my mouth shut...almost altho I did indiate it was my wave. I dont care he got smoked.
Shame i was distracted afterwards my concentration faltered. I wasnt scared just a bit annoyed.
Cracked the nose of my board quite badly too :( think i might skip this afternoons session and just chill by the pool for once, my feet are cut to ribbons, shins bleeding, hip hurts like hell. Basically my body is battered. LOL
Love surfing.
Thimbleweed Park 2
3 months ago
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