Hossegor 0 ten

First 'proper' surf trip Ive ever organized and so far so good. Crashed at Pete's house Tuesday night, we left at 3am for the Channel Tunnel. Once in France, 12 hours of driving a couple of coffees and a can of (free) Relentless later we arrived in Hossegor, to meet Pola, Ella, John, Tom and Paul.

No surf, it was getting dark and the Surf out the back of the apartment was massive - biggest ve ever seen. No contest. 3 people out, and they were pretty much towing in. the waves looked up to about 25feet.

That night we all ate lots and drank a lot of vin rouge, I ended up chatting to Pola all night (and being woken in the mddle of the night) surreal.First crisis dealt with along

Next morning, I awoke to find John suiting up, and heading out in what looked like quite rippy conditions. It was enough to make me feel tired. However when he returned he did bring reports of great looking (and manageable) surf down by the Capbreton breakwater.He was right, much more manageable and the crowd was pretty easy to deal with.

Went back to the same break in the evening after picking up Guy from Biarritz airport (and nearly ending up in Spain on the way home), not much joy at high tide, so we waited...an hour and a half...until we saw the first wave break(and not dump on the shore) we were in like a shot. Still had to wait at least another half hour until things started happening, but the sun had disappeared. another hour and it'd be brilliant.Got about three very fast steep takeoffs and exits...and no beatings. the shore dump was fierce.

this morning(Friday) back to the same break and it started small but as the tide dropped and with the switch it picked up with some waves coming up to solid 5/6foot. Was having a ball until a slight misunderstanding with Tom ended up with my board receiving 3 new holes(at least not my head). Awesome. I had tried to get over to the breaking part to not fuck up his ride, he thought the same as we paddled towards each other.

Headed out to look for board repair shop, found a whole industrial complex full of fsurf factories, HQ's and outlets. Ont he way whilst loading up the car the other told some old geezer i was a surf champion. 5 minutes later he came back and made me sign posters..oops.My joel parkinson im sorry.

€100 to get the board repaired, but it may have been a blessing in disguise. Headed south of Capreton to the old bunkers and had a killer session until about 7pm at high tide. Quite hollow and fun. didn't make it out of my only closeout barrel, But I did get to ride the Afterburner for the first time in a year, went really really well. Seemed faster and looser than the Piranha. Which I think was a good stepdown.Maybe now im finally ready to ride it, doesnt feel like it needs to be 6'6" either.

anyways Ants, Heather and Adam join the party tomorrow, and we're still here for another week, altho the swell drops after the weekend :(

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they came we surfed, variable conditions, some days 3 times, some not at all.

2 standout sessions at bunkers - a dawnie where i nearly had an asthma attack paddling out. didnt even know i fuckin had astma. but the ventolin certianly works afterwards. I blame the dangerous Petch coffee. Great evening session at bunkers with Paul and Tom. lots of kids, but so so good. Got to get back there next year!! Love surfing Frecnh beachies.

A couple of days before we left had a perfect evening at Bourdaines. absoloutely cranking perfect just overhead waves. about 5 oif us just took our own peak. Would kil to go back a surf that again.


Finally hit up dicks and whatever that retarded nightclub is, got mashed and about 2 hours sleep,anyways long easy drive home in one day, not bad, then back to shitty london and snow and havnt surfed since. high and dry. Still didnt get shanked on the security deposit.